When Icabod's tavern in south Fort Myers closed in January after a rent dispute, owner Rob Degennaro said he would soon launch a new place at the former Snug Harbor Restaurant at Fort Myers Beach.
We were a bit skeptical, but Nervous Nellie's opened in March. Degennaro traded his signature troll character for a neurotic pelican to reflect the Matanzas Pass setting.
Despite those changes, the mind-boggling menu remains remarkably similar, with close to 200 offerings. You have to wonder about restaurants like that. The effort to provide something for everyone often works against the overall quality of the food.
And it's a pain to decide what to eat!
The open-air deck was pretty full when we arrived, and a duo was playing islandy music. We were seated in a passage between the lobby and the main dining room - a high-traffic area where the outdoor music and the canned indoor music clashed. Luckily, the band took a break soon after we sat down.
Despite the discord, we still had a nice view of the pass and the bridge. Indoors, some of the Snug Harbor marine-themed trappings remain.
Like the menu, the cocktail list is extensive. We ordered a Banana Cream Pie ($6.95) and a Mango Madness martini ($7.95). Both were well blended and tasted like they were made with fresh fruit (as opposed to lousy "fruit-flavored" vodkas).
Finally, we had to tackle the menu. Decisions, decisions.
To get the ball rolling, we ordered fried artichokes and grilled dumplings. In the meantime, we would dive into the ocean of entrees, which run the gamut from humble meatloaf sandwiches to bouillabaisse. Ribs, steaks, stir-fry, burgers, seafood steam pots - it's all there. Even the children's menu sports 14 items.
Appetizers arrived in short order, and they were generously portioned - six to eight pieces on each platter.
The artichokes were especially good because of the ratio of breading to artichoke. The thin, crisp coating revealed plump, juicy hearts. A mayo-mustard dip was simple but zesty, a condiment that did not overwhelm the real star of the plate.
